“柴油就是牛仔布。”在这场秀开始之前，人工智能的声音已经反复阅读了维基百科上关于牛仔布的条目。我们设想了从Diesel工厂运来的牛仔边角料和边角料的海洋，这些边角料和边角料被铺在城外巨大的机库的地板上，这一季的秀场再次在这里举行。除了看起来如此令人不安的引人注目之外，这一姿态旨在强调在Glenn Martens的设计指导和Rosso家族的指导下，该品牌如何在核心材料的制造中从使用3%的再生，有机或再生棉花转向57%。考虑到迪塞尔的业务规模，这是一项重大成就。迪塞尔对牛仔布的改造不仅适用于工艺，也适用于产品。马滕斯在秀场前的聊天中提到，这个系列中大约80%的服装都含有这种成分。一开始，这几乎是不言自明的:破旧的毛绒绒热裤、洗过的带有压痕的五口袋经典款、意大利式吊带连衣裙、裙子和粗斜纹针织衫，其中有蓬乱的水平松散编织部分。然后就变得更难解析了。事实证明，威尔士亲王格子的定制单品和连衣裙是印花牛仔布——这是为了展示一件外表精致而珍贵的服装是如何像工作服一样坚固耐用的。在没有机会检查的情况下，我敢打赌，下一部分的主角服装——衣领和领口有巨大边缘的外衣和连衣裙——没有牛仔布(我可能会输)。不管是不是牛仔布，它们那一排细长的卷茎松松地绑在一起，既是装饰，也是支撑，让穿着它们的人看起来很有吸引力，就好像他们侥幸逃脱了办公室碎纸机的威胁。配饰包括正在生产的环绕式墨镜，镜框在细节和光泽上都是不同的，还有一款名为Double D的新手袋，这是对Diesel品牌传统的尊重，它的形状非常丰满。这里有牛仔布条、牛仔提花，还有一件《黑客帝国》(The Matrix)里的Neo风格的修袍，用的是靛蓝牛仔压花(未经处理)，最后一段是扎着、包裹着的针织服装，上面印着复古的迪塞尔(Diesel)围巾，略微改变了图案。马滕斯说:“在过去的几季里，我们在这里做了很多不同的事情，所以我认为这是再次提醒大家注意我们的牛仔布的时刻。”他当然达到了他的目的。

“Diesel is denim.” So droned the AI voice that had already read and re-read the Wikipedia entry on denim before this show started. We contemplated an arresting and scary ocean of denim scraps and off-cuts that had been brought in from Diesel facilities then spread across the floor of the cavernous out-of-town hangar in which the show was held again this season. As well as looking so unsettlingly striking, this gesture was meant to emphasize how under the design direction of Glenn Martens and the direction of the Rosso clan this brand has pivoted from using three percent to 57 percent regenerative, organic, or recycled cotton in the manufacture of its core material. Considering the scale of Diesel’s business, that is a significant achievement.Diesel’s reinvention of denim applies to product as well as process. Chatting before the show, Martens mooted that around 80 per cent of this collection’s looks contained it. At the beginning, this was mostly self-evident: distressed and tufted hot pants, washed five-pocket classics with pressed creases, spaghetti-strap dresses, skirts and denim-jersey separates with shaggily horizontal loose weave sections. Then it became harder to parse. The tailored pieces and dresses in prince of wales check were, it turns out, printed denim—there to show how a garment with a refined and precious facade could be rendered as robustly tough as workwear.Without having had the chance to check, I’d wager that the next section’s starring garments—the outerwear and dresses edged with enormous reefs of fringing at the collar and neckline—were denim-free (and I’d probably lose). Denim or not, their banks of sliced tendrils loosely tied as both decoration and support made their wearers attractively appear as if they’d narrowly escaped a close call with an office shredder.Accessories included wraparound shades whose frames were in production roughed up to be all individually different in detail and patina, and a new handbag whose name, the Double D, honored the Diesel branding tradition and was broadcast buxomly in its shape. There was denim boucle, denim jacquard, and a Neo from The Matrix style monkish gown in embossed (not treated) indigo denim before a closing section of tied and wrapped jersey garments printed with vintage Diesel scarves that shifted the pattern a little. “We’ve been doing a lot of different things here over the last few seasons, so I think this was the moment to remind everyone about our denim again,” said Martens. He certainly achieved his aim.